Dear lemmings,

I am fairly new to the server-game and want to set up my first NAS. I will not only be doing a lot of reading but also quite a lot of writing as well so I guess RAID10 (even though hardware/money intensive) would be a good choice? Or should I rather go for RAID 0 with 3 2 1 backup strategy? Currently I am hosting some websites others use as well so uptime is an issue.

Now I am not sure what brand/model to buy, when reading up on it they all sound decent. I have an old PC that I can use to run the drives so I only really need to buy the drives for now. Currently I am looking at drives with a capacity of around 14TB if that is of any importance.

Many thanks in advance :D

  • Scrubbles@poptalk.scrubbles.techEnglish
    12·
    6 months ago

    WD Red has always been my go-to, and in the last 8 years of homelabbing I haven’t had a single one fail. Blues and Greens are not build for NAS operations, and you’ll see them fail. Toshibas I haven’t had a single one make it past a year, except for their gaming drives.

    If you want the shortcut, the WD Elements usually go on sale at Best Buy regularly, and they’re always a WD Red or White, which will also work. All of my drives have been one of those. You just shuck the internal drive out of the enclosure

    • JustEnoughDucks@feddit.nlEnglish
      91·
      6 months ago

      Definitely Red plus. They are quiet as hell and 12TB+ are helium filled.

      Just got a 12TB a while ago and it is as quiet as my 4TB drives.

      But for OP, just use software raid instead of hardware raid. There is very little point for homelabbers using hardware raid at this point without an existing setup.

    • blackstrat@lemmy.fwgx.ukEnglish
      11·
      6 months ago

      Don’t use Red drives for a NAS!! You need the Red Plus (or is it red pro) disks as they’re CMR.

      I’d go for Ultrastar drives personally. There’s a few really good videos online analyzing the backblaze stats for different drives that are well worth watching.

  • MalReynolds@slrpnk.netEnglish
    101·
    6 months ago

    To a large degree, the point of RAID is to not care about drive reliability, trust the process. Also, you seem to conflate RAID with backup (“RAID is not a backup”), you want both. In a NAS, you’re probably better off with RAID5 + backup.

    In a system that can take a drive failure, the current datahoarder zeitgeist is Manufacturer Recertified (Enterprise) Drives, see ServerPartDeals.com if you’re a yank, other countries have their own options.

  • FiveMacs@lemmy.caEnglish
    6·
    6 months ago

    You just want some models, or do you have a price point that you shouldn’t exceed? I always stick with Western digital for the most part, but again how much money you got will depend on the tier of drive.

    • smokinliver@sopuli.xyzOPEnglish
      5·
      6 months ago

      I can afford enterprise-grade drives. It is rather that I have little to no clue about the reliability and failure-rates of different manufacturers/models.

      And how different are these from consumer-grade ones? Is it cheaper to buy expensive drives once instead of multiple cheap ones one after another or do the quality differences not matter that much at all?

      • catloaf@lemm.eeEnglish
        3·
        6 months ago

        If you can get cheap ones for cheap, then get a bunch of cheap ones and just replace them when they fail. As long as you’re not abusing them, they’ll last plenty long.

        Also, keep regular backups in case something catastrophic happens. RAID won’t save you if something corrupts the whole array.

  • carzian@lemmy.mlEnglish
    6·
    6 months ago

    I’ve always liked the ultrastar line. Used to be made by HGST and then WD bought them. I’m using specifically the HC530 14tb. The line has a long history of being very reliable enterprise drives.

    I’ve bought mine from both goharddrive and serverpartsdeals. Both are reliable resellers of used storage. They’ll warranty the drives for 2 or 5 years depending on which you to with. Prices are ~$130-$150.

    Be aware you might need to do the electrical tape over some of the power pins hacks depending on your setup.

    Ps. One of the listings for the HC530 on goharddrive or serverpartdeals is incorrectly labels as HC520. Just pay close attention.

    As far as raid goes, Raid 10 is currently very popular for its speed and drive failure tolerance. Remember, raid is not a replacement for the 3-2-1 backup rule. Raid has some fault tolerances for bad hard drives, but doesn’t protect against a failed raid card, fire, flood, robber, acts of god, etc.

    You can also look into zfs and truenas if you feel inclined. Be aware that if you go with this setup, ecc ram is basically a requirement

      • carzian@lemmy.mlEnglish
        4·
        6 months ago

        “The cause is a new SATA specification which includes the ability to disable power to the hard disk. When you look at the SATA power connection on the back of your hard drive, there are 15 pins that make contact with your power supply. It’s the third pin that delivers a 3.3V signal that disables the drive. What we need to do is prevent that third pin from making contact with the power cable.”

        Some hotswap harddrive bays use this feature, definitely more common in enterprise scenarios or in USB HDD enclosures.

  • Decronym@lemmy.decronym.xyzBEnglish
    1·
    6 months ago

    Acronyms, initialisms, abbreviations, contractions, and other phrases which expand to something larger, that I’ve seen in this thread:

    Fewer Letters More Letters
    NAS Network-Attached Storage
    RAID Redundant Array of Independent Disks for mass storage
    SATA Serial AT Attachment interface for mass storage

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