Any sort of op-amp circuit would easily make use of a 15V input, or better yet using the full 20V with a 10V reference to get +/-10V voltage rails for an amplifier circuit.
Any sort of op-amp circuit would easily make use of a 15V input, or better yet using the full 20V with a 10V reference to get +/-10V voltage rails for an amplifier circuit.
These don’t seem to be particularly new panels. $600 and only 97% of the sRGB color space (= ~78% DCI-P3), meanwhile a similarly priced LG “QNED” can do 90-95% of DCI-P3. I’m not sure you can even call those TVs HDR if they’re only 8-bit color. None of these models can even remotely compare to a brand new OLED TV.
I think it’s just a very unfortunate auto-cropped thumbnail
Today was my first day back after vacation… I wish I had more time off to take.
the comic itself is stupid
The comic isn’t so much a criticism as it is a comedic observation of what happens in the real world.
At least that’s how I interpret it.
Transported in the same truck as a lime once.
I definitely agree, but I was expecting you to compare with something more expensive. Personally I really like Spindrift, but it’s like 2x the price. On the other hand, you can’t beat tap water for value (or filtered water depending on your local water quality).
At this point, to me, “AAA” features means it’s full of microtransactions, predatory marketing, and lootbox gambling.
Root’s home has been /root
on every distro I’ve ever used ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I’ve been trying to motivate myself to go out for walks more. I really enjoy hiking, but especially over the winter, the weather is always an easy excuse not to go out (I’m in the PNW, so winter means rain).
I just bought some nice waterproof hiking shoes that will take away at least one excuse. I’d get wet feet using running shoes, and cleaning mud off was a pain too. Having the right equipment can make going out way more pleasant. (Also it can be exciting to try out new shoes or whatever it is)
Likewise, AirDrop should have been a drone-based delivery service. Maybe they could partner up!
It was also moving more volume of air, not just airspeed. Sure I would have loved to see a fully shrouded experiment, but their experiment did show a regular fan moved air faster over a wider area, which would mean it is also moving a higher volume of air.
The difference between a vacuum and this fanless cooling device is that a vacuum happens to generate a small amount of static, and usually has grounding wires in the hose to prevent it shocking things, while this fanless device is intentionally ionizing as much air as possible to get it to move.
As demonstraded by the ActionLab video someone else posted, “bladeless” fans in general are less efficient. The one he tested was not a Dyson and didn’t have a HEPA filter.
I don’t think you two are even contradicting each other. The airflow going through the base can be 15x smaller than the total result, but also require more energy than just using a regular fan that moves that amount of air.
Total airflow and efficiency are two independent things.
Disclaimer: I have no real data on how Dyson fans work.
the reason people recommend against vacuuming a PC
A regular vacuum isn’t doing anything with ions or high voltages. Moving air can generate potentially harmful static electricity, but usually the reason people recommend against vacuuming a PC is because if you spin the fans doing that, the motors inside turn into generators and drive current back into your PC parts that could damage them.
Some of the performance EVs like the Porsche Taycan have a second gear to help with top speed and acceleration above 60mph. Pretty much any regular use wouldn’t need a transmission. Tesla’s been doing just fine with a single gear ratio in their vehicles.
I thought the $20k EV segment was just impossible because just the battery alone costs $15k
I think part of that is caused by stupid turn signal designs that don’t stay in place, so to cancel a signal you have to push it in the opposite direction. And people can’t figure out how to get them to work properly.
Personally I just have an old micro USB cable I cut the end off of and soldered solid-core wire to. Just plug the USB-A end into a battery bank and the wires into the breadboard rails and you’ve got a stable 5V supply. I rarely needed 3.3V on a breadboard, but when I did I usually had a 5V to 3.3V voltage translator already on the board which was enough to get by.