They’re synonyms in this case, so either works here

Not a single screen to be found! Just analog gauges and buttons as it should be.

The good old days of phpmybb

They don’t have to explicitly ban the Cybertruck if it doesn’t pass the existing regulations. It’s not legal to drive in UK/EU. You could buy one for display-only or something I’m sure.

Vinyl is lossy in that any dust or scratches on the record can be heard in the output, so this is only true if you’ve got an absolutely pristine vinyl.

I’ve realized that for a lot of things that a phone does, e-ink is too slow to refresh. Even web browsing becomes painful to navigate sometimes. Maybe a dual-screen approach would work with e-ink on one side and a regular screen on the other?

It’s so easy! Watch:

{"contents": "<garbled .docx contents goes here>"}

I’m surprised you mentioned the battery (which is a problem with any EV towing), and not the fact the hitch can just snap off if you hit a pothole hard enough.

Most over-ear noise cancelling headphones I’ve seen have a 3.5mm input that works with the noise cancelling.

they built a model specifically to work well on the benchmarks.

To be fair, I’m pretty sure that’s what everyone is doing. If you’re not measuring against something, there’s no way to tell if you’re doing anything at all.

What the fuck, who changed that? Seems like a horrible idea.

Another point is that if the dam is 10m tall, it has to be built to withstand 10m of water. just because it sits at 5m most of the time doesn’t mean a heavy rain couldn’t raise the level, and if the dam collapses that’s going to be catastrophic vs just spilling over the top.

Personally I’d be happy if I never had to touch a micro-USB device ever again. Mini-USB is somewhat acceptable, but USB-C blows the rest out of the water. It’s unquestionably the better USB standard

That would be USB 2.0 and is pretty safe to assume that all USB ports and cables support this (If you can find a USB 1.0 or 1.1 port I’ll be impressed). Why bother with a 480Mbps logo if it’s the default minimum?

Possibly even a multi-part rar

A tomb? In this economy? 😂

How will they even know it exists until the switch is triggered?

Personally I just have an old micro USB cable I cut the end off of and soldered solid-core wire to. Just plug the USB-A end into a battery bank and the wires into the breadboard rails and you’ve got a stable 5V supply. I rarely needed 3.3V on a breadboard, but when I did I usually had a 5V to 3.3V voltage translator already on the board which was enough to get by.

Any sort of op-amp circuit would easily make use of a 15V input, or better yet using the full 20V with a 10V reference to get +/-10V voltage rails for an amplifier circuit.

These don’t seem to be particularly new panels. $600 and only 97% of the sRGB color space (= ~78% DCI-P3), meanwhile a similarly priced LG “QNED” can do 90-95% of DCI-P3. I’m not sure you can even call those TVs HDR if they’re only 8-bit color. None of these models can even remotely compare to a brand new OLED TV.